The New Baby

Since she was about 5 years old and noticed one in a brocante, our youngest daughter has mentioned several times how much she would love to have a typewriter. Born in 1995, she has grown up with computers and laptops and thoroughly embraced Apple products, recently persuading her father (it’s the eyes!!) to buy her the latest phone… Thanks to the internet and online auctions, I recently noticed that the famous “Hermes Baby” typewriter was still going strong on the second hand market and yesterday, for a very modest sum (and a fraction of the original 1935 price of CHF 160.- at just 15.-!), a neat little case came into our possession.

These days, nearly-20 year olds are laidback and not always easy to impress. You would have been as amused and amazed as I was to observe the reaction to the new toy! With an enormous grin and shining eyes, she immediately investigated all the keys, how it works and also discovered some things it can’t do which she is used to from a modern keyboard. Thrilled to discover it has a Swiss keyboard (Hermes typewriters are a Swiss product, made by E. Paillard in Yverdon), she found ä, ö and ü and worked out how shift back and forth to make é and è… Some things made me laugh, having learnt to type on an old IBM Golfball, and which she had to discover for herself, but the most glorious moment of all was when she discovered how to make it “ping” – I thought she would explode with delight! IMG_4887Truly, she was as excited about this little vintage machine as if it had been the latest ultrathin laptop. It is all of 10″ square, making it actually smaller than a 13″ Macbook, although it is a couple of inches high! It weighs 3.6 kg, which made it the ideal travel companion for authors and journalists back in the day, being the most compact and light of typewriters, and many famous writers used one for their work, including people like Ernest Hemingway and Max Frisch, Françoise Sagan and, incidentally, Ella Maillart and Annemarie Schwarzenbach, who took one along on their travels. Our model was identifiable thanks to a wonderfully informative site, (in German) and is a 1958 model, the last which had the oval logo. As the lady who sold it to me has just retired, it was probably hers all along – she’s emigrating to Rumania! I ought to mention that it is in perfect working order, though the ribbon is old and we will need to source a new one, which seems to be fairly readily available.

What this young lady hadn’t known was that her great grandfather worked for many many years for British Typewriters in West Bromwich and was very handy at fixing things, so was often found bent over someone’s old typewriter, intent on mending something. Even I had only been vaguely aware as a child that Grandad did “something” at “the typewriters”, and on researching the Hermes Baby, I was surprised and pleased to find that British Typewriters had a licence for the Hermes Baby, marketing it as the Baby Empire in Britain!

How nice to have come full circle :)

PS I know you were probably expecting to hear about the “other” new baby, who is now 4 mths old and wonderfully bonny and blue-eyed – yes!! – but that will have to wait for another time! It’s nice to be back…


The very windy and stormy last day of March cleared for little while for a show of bright sunshine – and the birth of Mael, our newest grandson! IMG_4387Just home from the hospital, barely 5 hours old and wrapped in what has become an heirloom blanket – remember this: IMG_0354IMG_3928Great Aunt Miriam’s little hand-noted pattern for a baby lace edging was the inspiration to use it in a larger-scale baby blanket, all ready for the newborn a hundred years later… IMG_4289Drops baby alpaca-silk, very soft and cuddly and warm! Mael Sean  31.3.15This is his hospital portrait: 3960g and 53cm… aaahhh!!

Many congratulations to his mum and dad, brother and sister :) <3 BIG hugs!!!




From Mael’s point-of-view, Great Aunt Miriam is actually Great-great-great-great Aunt Miriam!! (I think, since she was my granny’s aunt?!)


Two tips

Today, two very different artists  i’d like to bring to your attention.

Firstly, the very talented Harry Baker, slam poet and mathematician. Amusing but not a comedian, he is very clever indeed. See him at TED Exeter here, and sharpen your ears!

As it happens, there’s a poetry slam next door this evening, so looking forward to that!

Secondly, check out the amazingly beautiful and atmospheric photographs of Australian Murray Fredericks, really breathtaking sea and skyscapes, mostly from Greenland; he’s featured in this month’s National Geographic and you’ll be as spellbound as I was, I’m sure.


PS Update: what an entertaining evening! Four excellent teams and a funny little local chap provided us with plenty of laughs and got lots of hugely deserved applause. In the end, it was a tie (though all had been very good!). Turned out, one team won last year’s Swiss championship and the others are very professional German poets. If you’re interested, there are YouTube clips of a couple of the pieces…

Interrobang: on the subject of Fondue!

KuK: a little more philosophical


A new old world

Ella Maillart popped up here in Y for Yacht, included because I had read the Olivier Weber biography about her several years ago. After this, various aspects meant I wanted to investigate more, so I embarked on one of Ella’s own books (available on Kindle as well in hard copy!), The Cruel Way: Switzerland to Afghanistan by Ford. Ella’s personal history, being Swiss and from Geneva/Romandie, her early sporting achievements and unconventional international upbringing had interested me, the era of the 1930s has always had a lot of appeal and the troubles of the region throughout most of my lifetime (I vividly remember the influx of new students at our international school from 1979 onwards) meant I wanted to read more about what was surely a big adventure in those days.

Before I even got more than a couple of chapters in, I was glad of my know-it-all friend Ms. Google and realised how very ignorant I was about so many things – not least a very sketchy idea of the geography and politics of one of the oldest civilised regions of the world. It appears I did not pay as much attention in history class as I thought I had and just the introduction to the expedition Ella and her friend Annemarie Schwarzenbach undertook had me running for the atlas, historical maps and Wikipedia entries on history, ethnicities, languages, costumes – you name it. And there I was, thinking I had a decent grounding! What’s more, Ella wasn’t undertaking this trip as a naïve young thing – she had already travelled throughout Asia before this and so had a very good idea of what to expect – she just thought a Ford V8 (18 horsepower!) would be the perfect vehicle, far better than her previous travels…Ford-V8-1939

The story opens in the Graubünden mountains, very familiar to me, describes briefly how the women did a tour of cities (Paris, London…) to make preparations for their trip and then set off in June 1939 from Geneva and over the Simplon pass to Italy, another familiar route to me. On across northern Italy to Trieste, for centuries an important harbour and the gateway to eastern Europe. But I had to consult a map to follow where they went from there…Europe-1929Crossing into Yugaslavia, what is now Slovenia (followed by Croatia and Serbia) and on east, Ella describes the people and the costumes she sees, and sees the similarities to peoples and dress of other ethnic groups she’s familiar with from her earlier trips to countries and regions strange and exotic to me – Mongolian, Afghan, Turkestan and the never-heard-of Baluchistan Brahui…! Maybe those lines drawn on a map are a whole lot more permeable than we allow for – migration has been prominent for a couple of thousand years, so why should there not be similarities and relationships between cultures? How ignorant we are of anything that is not in our central and western European home! We consider the Mediterranean, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece – the holidaying paradises – to be exotic, are slowly looking into northern Africa, prefer to jet out to the Maldives or the Caribbean or southeast Asia, and yet what do we know of eastern Europe?! Croatian national costumeEmbroidered Croatian national dress… and Balochi dress…over 3000 miles apart…Balochi dressMy interest in textiles probably has something to do with the fact that I had a small collection of costume dolls as a child – but nothing quite as exotic as this! I’m sure colours have symbolism in these different cultures, but there is definitely a certainly similarity in cut and of style of embroidery from region to region, which I hadn’t even considered before. These examples are mainly geometric but I’m sure there are more naturalistic examples to be found and it makes me wonder who, if anyone, has ever made a real study of them? I know that there are textile historians, but also realise the limitations on travel and research into some of the more troubled areas so that increasingly, it is likely that traditional styles could be lost. Ella felt that much of these cultures was on the way out already in 1939.

But in 1939, our adventuresses still had a lot of freedoms. While this kind of trip was never going to be easy and Ella was concerned about her friend’s fragile health (and she herself had back trouble), they were not afraid to set up their tent along remote roadsides when they were tired; she recounts meeting Baroness Eva Blixen-Finecke* (yes, Blixen as in Klaus-Maria Brandauer in the 1985 film “Out of Africa” but of course really a Swedish Baron and this his third wife!) in Kabul, travelling alone from Sweden on her way to China through Soviet Turkestan with only a simple letter of introduction – and yet finds the Baroness not adventurous enough, as she only stays on the main roads… apparently, “even for unaccompanied women there is no danger nowadays in travelling through Afghanistan”!

The Ford, with all its supposed suitability for “Asiatic travels”, cracks with the weight of a second spare wheel, a luggage rack and a second tank as it bumps across poor Yugoslavian roads – the doors won’t close and the tanks leaked; Ella siphoned petrol by mouth (apparently a numbing sensation!). Everything was shoved into the extra “dicky” seat at the back of the car – equipment, suitcases, first aid kit, typewriters, spare springs… not your modern-day minimalist digital nomads by a long shot.

Ford V8 Black SeaBut now, if a little abruptly, I will leave you at this point, hopefully curious about how the trip went on, to let you discover for yourselves what curious restlessness could achieve (or not) all those years ago and to think about how it compares to expeditions in our modern world, 75 years on… remember my writing about the young Germans who undertook a rally to Mongolia in a Renault Twingo…?!




Edit: This book also appears to be available to read in a scanned version on Google Books, free of charge. (Add.: only partially available!) There are also other foreign language translations.


A treasure trove

I love history. I love colour. Textiles are the fabric of our lives. And I have always been fascinated by magazines. Although I’ve been interested in fashion in general, and fashion history in particular, I’ve never been into high end fashion magazines like Vogue, Marie-Claire, Elle or whatever all the big names are. Maybe because there has never been any question of me wearing those kinds of clothes, never having been in any way, shape or form “willowy”!

delphi-l-officiel-september-15-1921-reverie-d-opium-robe-jean-patoul'officielHowever, a typographer friend recently pointed out the original artwork of the new Swiss version of L’Officiel magazine. To be honest, I had never even heard of the original French magazine, certainly never noticed it lined up with any of the others. American Vogue had been started in 1892 and by 1920, Condé Nast were ready to issue a new, French Vogue mirroring the status of Paris in the fashion world. I gather this didn’t go down well in all quarters and something “genuinely” French was required – enter L’Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris, the first edition of which appeared in 1921. When I took a look at the L’Officiel website, I was overjoyed to find the entire archive available to look at – every back issue from mid-2013 all the way to 1921! Had my friend not mentioned the original competition between the magazines, I would never have looked for the history…1908-Les_Robes_de_Paul_Poiret-7Les robes de Paul Poiret

The first few issues were short and simple (26 pages v. 205 pages in 2013) and yet already published with both French and English text describing the wonderful gowns of the day. From the very start names pop up which are classics of fashion – Paul Poiret advertises, as does Jeanne Lanvin and as you move through the years of exotic and exquisite fashions, names like Elsa Schiaparelli or Christian Dior begin to appear. It’s an incredibly fascinating look in to several very different era. The early 1920s still feature many line drawings – though artist’s representations continue a long way, and the occasional photograph is there from the start, gradually gaining in importance and much later, in colour.

lanvinThe styling is amazing, the textiles originally described in detail but also featuring such things as monkey fur edgings! Furs feature quite a lot, as they were essential in high-end fashion and in those days, women had no qualms about wearing them, and it really is quite an insight into a rich lady’s wardrobe. For a while, there was a section in the back that had all the text in Spanish, too, but eventually the magazine became French only, possibly because there are around 20 foreign editions these days, catering for a global readership. Certainly, the more recent issues are yawn-inducing (to me, anyway!) but putting your history hats on, it becomes clearer all the time that there is nothing new on this planet in the way of fashion – it’s all been there and done at least once, if not multiple times, in the past; the same shapes and forms and colours return again and again. Early on, there seems to have been only one way of being fashionable, but at the latest post-war when Dior introduced the full-skirted “New Look” alongside the slim pencil-skirted look, it looks as if variation became more acceptable and of course, nowadays, almost anything goes. dior

As you can tell, I’ve been thrilled to discover this archive and can definitely recommend you go and have a browse:

But remember, it’s a rabbit hole and it could be some time before you re-emerge…!



Z for Zoological

I was recently quite chuffed to notice a bright little bird I hadn’t seen here before and which I identified as a European crested tit, a bird which isn’t seen in England, although we do have many other types of common tit –crestd titA more unusual wild animal to be found in Switzerland is the lynx, which was reintroduced from 1971, and we also have a few wolves and bears which come across the borders uninvited – all species which became extinct long ago here and elsewhere. Lynx We’re very lucky to have some excellent zoological gardens in Switzerland. The oldest is the  Basler “Zolli”, opened in 1874, and although it is a city zoo, it holds the most variety of animals and is an important one as zoos go. It remains very active and is even considering getting some pandas in, one of few European zoos to do so. It’s a very attractive zoo, a real “animal park” and a lovely place to go if you’re ever in in Basle, with a lot of mature trees and a nice relaxed atmosphere.Zoo Basel

Zoo Zürich is probably the biggest and most innovative of the zoos and has spent many years completely reconfiguring its enclosures and passing on any animals that it cannot sustainably look after – it is already 15 hectares and will grow to 20 in the next few years. This makes a visit very interesting, as it requires some patience to stand quietly and observe an enclosure until you spot an animal rather than having the animals presented in cages – a much more modern way to see animals we may never see in the wild and of course, nicer for the animals themselves to be able to retire if they want to! Zoo Zürich has achieved a lot in the scheme of zoos and has a lot to offer, not least its beautiful location high up above Zürich at 600 m above sea level – and you can admire a wide range of animals from elephants (which are successfully bred) to penguins, which are taken on walks through the zoo to give them plenty of exercise…PICT3770Great fun to take a walk with penguins in the snow!

A smaller zoo that has made concerted efforts to vastly improve the way they keep animals is the private Walter Zoo in Gossau, which we have often supported and visited with our children and dogs – yes, dogs are allowed here! Founded by Walter Pischl in 1961, “Tierli Walter” was quite a character; many a child had a school visit from him and his reptiles, always an exciting event and an unforgettable opportunity to get up close to a snake or lizard. The Walter Zoo has the largest monkey house in Switzerland, but is a real family day out with places to barbecue, a small circus each summer and great entertainment and facilities for children. walterzoo_gr2

Although there is always going to be argument as to the merits of zoos, so many children and adults will never have the opportunity to experience the variety of animals they can see in a zoo and some species would simply be extinct if it wasn’t for the breeding programmes in international zoos, so that personally, I am happy to see zoos continue to develop and improve as understanding of animals’ needs grows and I feel very fortunate to have been able to experience zoos all my life! PICT3491My youngest daughter’s favourites since she was very small, the flamingoes in Zurich

Y for Yacht

At first, it didn’t seem to me that “yacht” was a particularly Swiss thing to write about. Then I thought of Alinghi, twice winner of the America’s Cup, and the fact that Switzerland borders on two of the largest lakes in Europe, as well as having a big sailing scene on all the many lakes in this small country, and realised how wrong I was! Alinghi

Perhaps surprisingly for a land-locked country, the Swiss make excellent sailors. Their sense of order and precision, being methodical and sensible and unexcitable, are ideal traits for those who can think of nothing better than “simply messing about in boats”, as Ratty muses in The Wind in the Willows… To sail in Switzerland, you have to have a licence if you have more than 15m2 of sail area, and sailing has become even more popular as the years go by, with many going on to study for a coastal sailing licence. You might be surprised to hear how many have sailing experience, once you get chatting… ella maillart

You may never have heard of Ella Maillart from Lake Geneva (1903-1997), but she was an intelligent, fascinating and sporty young woman who sailed, climbed and skied in the days when it wasn’t entirely “proper” for females to do so, and she was only 20 when she sailed for Switzerland at the 1924 Olympics, the youngest sailor and the only woman! (She later skied for Switzerland internationally, too, in 1931-34, going on to become a travelling adventuress, writer and photographer, see Je suis de nulle part : Sur les traces d’Ella Maillart, a biography by Olivier Weber, her own The Cruel Way: Switzerland to Afghanistan by Ford, or, for more about this very interesting person.)LacustreThe very elegant lines of the Lacustre…

Still on Lake Geneva, at Corsier Port, a contemporary of Maillart was the legendary boat builder, Henri Copponex – naval architect, regatta competitor and Olympic bronze medallist (1960). Perhaps most famous for his Lacustre boat designs from the 1930s onwards, he also designed Swedish 30m2 and the racing class 5.5m IR, in which he did much of his yacht racing internationally, among others – he drew over 400 boat plans, meticulously engineered via mathematics. Our particular interest, though, is his design of the smaller 15 SNS (Swiss National Series), because our own little yacht is a 1965 15 SNS from Corsier – designed by Copponex and 50 years old this year!! IMG_0699IMG_3028